Visiting Shenandoah

Shenandoah is one of my favorite outdoor destinations in Virginia. The region follows the Blue Ridge Mountains through the western part of the state, with forested peaks rising above the surrounding valleys to elevations of more than 4,000 feet (1,200 meters). Shenandoah National Park protects a large section of these mountains and provides habitat for black bears, bobcats, foxes, deer, flying squirrels, and hundreds of species of birds, reptiles, amphibians, and other wildlife.

Although Shenandoah lacks the alpine environments and high elevations of the major mountain ranges I’ve traveled through elsewhere in the world, there’s still an excellent mix of outdoor activities here. It’s one of the best places in Virginia for hiking and camping, with additional opportunities for rock climbing, scrambling, and canyoneering.

Shenandoah Through the Seasons

Shenandoah is especially popular during the summer and fall, but as a local I’ve visited throughout the year. Autumn can become extremely crowded when the leaves reach peak color, so I’ve actually made fewer fall trips than you might expect. The photo above shows the first colors beginning to appear, while below is a much better example of peak fall foliage.

White Oak Canyon

I’ve hiked in Shenandoah more times than I can remember. One of my favorite areas is White Oak Canyon, which is known for its series of waterfalls and swimming holes. Starting from the lower trailhead and climbing through the canyon gives you roughly 1,000 feet (300 meters) of elevation gain before reaching the major upper falls, with numerous cascades along the way.

The waterfall above is Upper Whiteoak Falls, one of the largest waterfalls along the route. The combination of waterfalls, forest, swimming holes, and elevation gain makes White Oak Canyon one of my favorite warm-weather hikes in Shenandoah.

Wildlife in Shenandoah

Hiking here during different seasons can feel like visiting completely different forests. During summer, parts of Shenandoah become incredibly dense and green compared with the bare forests of winter. Flowers and vegetation cover the forest floor, while insects, birds, and other animals make the woods noticeably louder and more active.

The photo above of a pipevine swallowtail was taken early in my photography days. Almost a decade later I returned with much better camera equipment, including a macro lens, which gave me a chance to photograph some of Shenandoah’s smaller wildlife in much greater detail.

Large millipedes are common on the forest floor during the warmer months. If you’re scrambling over rocks and logs, there’s a good chance you’ll eventually come across one.

During spring I’ve also come across huge numbers of caterpillars moving through the trees and across the forest floor. Some species create large communal webs in the trees, while others are much easier to appreciate individually through a macro lens.

This ground beetle is known as a caterpillar hunter. As its name suggests, caterpillars make up an important part of its diet. Photographing it was difficult because it constantly scurried around and refused to stay still.

This is a juvenile five-lined skink, easily recognized by its bright blue tail and the five stripes running along its body. Despite how much time I’ve spent outdoors in Virginia, I don’t see them nearly as often as many other reptiles.

Eastern box turtles are much more familiar sights in Virginia’s forests. I’m a little disappointed that this particular photo came out blurry, but until I photograph a better one, it’s the best example I have from Shenandoah.

These wildlife photos span more than a decade of hiking, so don’t expect to see this many animals on a single trip. I’ve encountered plenty of snakes over the years, including this particularly defensive eastern ratsnake. I’ve also encountered timber rattlesnakes and copperheads in the region, although naturally those were on trips when I didn’t have my camera with me.

For years, the one Shenandoah animal I wanted to see most was a black bear. Somehow I managed to hike here for roughly a decade without seeing one, while I’d meet people who spotted bears on their very first visit. Eventually my luck changed and I finally had my first close encounter with one.

I’ve seen more bears since then. Most either ignored me or quickly moved through the forest. Black bears generally avoid people, but they’re still wild animals and should always be given plenty of space, especially when cubs or food are nearby.

This small mammal was actually much harder for me to spot than a bear. I’ve smelled skunks countless times while hiking or driving at night, but this was my first time actually seeing one in the wild. I had no idea they had such large claws!

Raccoons are another primarily nocturnal animal that can be difficult to see while hiking during the day. I’ve encountered them throughout Virginia over the years, usually after dark.

Birds of Shenandoah

Shenandoah is also an excellent place for bird watching. I’ve seen far more species than I’ve managed to photograph well. Turkey vultures are among the easiest large birds to spot and can frequently be seen soaring above the ridges.

Red-tailed hawks are another impressive sight, although I’ve had much less luck getting close enough to photograph them.

Luray Caverns

Just outside Shenandoah National Park is another major natural attraction: Luray Caverns. Discovered in 1878, the caverns have been attracting visitors for well over a century and contain enormous stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and reflective pools. I’ve visited caves in several parts of the world, and Luray remains one of the most beautiful I’ve seen.

One of Luray’s most unusual attractions is the Great Stalacpipe Organ. Rather than producing every note inside the console itself, the instrument uses electronically controlled mallets to strike stalactites distributed throughout the cavern. The stalactites were carefully selected and modified to produce specific notes, effectively turning part of the cavern itself into an enormous musical instrument.

Old Rag Mountain

Now for my favorite part of Shenandoah: Old Rag Mountain. Old Rag has a reputation for being crowded, but I’ve found one reliable solution—go when there’s deep snow and you’ll have a much better chance of getting the mountain to yourself. I’ve climbed Old Rag more times than I can remember, and for years I used it as a training ground for major peaks around the world.

There are several reasons Old Rag stands out. First, it’s scenic throughout the year. I’ve hiked it in scorching summer heat, deep winter snow, and on those perfect crisp days in spring and fall. Unlike many Shenandoah trails that follow forested ridges, Old Rag’s exposed summit provides expansive views in nearly every direction.

The other major attraction is the rock scramble. After the regular hiking section, the route becomes much more hands-on as you climb over, around, and between large granite boulders. It isn’t technical rock climbing, but it provides a completely different experience from an ordinary hiking trail.

As you climb higher, the scrambling becomes more interesting. Large boulders force you to climb through narrow passages, use your hands, and occasionally make short climbing moves. One of the best-known features is the Gap, photographed above. Snow and ice make this section considerably more challenging in winter.

I’ve convinced just about everyone I can think of to join me on Old Rag at one point or another, including my father, photographed above. This is roughly three quarters of the way up the mountain, and even before reaching the summit the views are impressive.

Old Rag’s summit reaches 3,284 feet (1,001 meters) and is covered by large exposed granite boulders. Some hikers are satisfied simply reaching the summit area, but I’ve always felt the need to climb onto the highest rocks to feel like I’ve truly reached the top. The photo above shows me when I was younger, probably while I was training for Aconcagua.

The photo above was taken almost ten years later during a winter climb when we reached the summit just as the sun was setting. After so many trips, Old Rag is more than simply another hike for me. It’s one of the places where I learned and trained before taking on much larger mountains around the world, and it’s still one of my favorite places to return to in Virginia.