At 20,310 feet (6,190 meters), Denali is the highest mountain in North America and one of the most demanding of the Seven Summits. Rising above the wilderness of Alaska, Denali combines extreme cold, powerful winds, heavy snowfall, dangerous glaciers, and weeks of carrying everything needed to survive on the mountain.
Unlike many of the world’s major mountains, Denali’s West Buttress Route has no porters carrying equipment between camps. We transported our own food, tents, climbing equipment, and supplies, carrying enormous backpacks while pulling additional loads behind us in sleds. Between climbing partners, this meant moving hundreds of pounds of equipment up the mountain.
Denali was unlike any mountain I had climbed before. Altitude was only part of the challenge. We crossed glaciers filled with hidden crevasses, hauled heavy loads through deep snow, built protective walls of snow and ice around our tents, climbed fixed ropes onto the West Buttress, and endured some of the most violent mountain weather I had ever experienced.
My expedition followed the West Buttress Route, beginning on the Kahiltna Glacier and gradually progressing through a series of camps toward the summit. I’ve divided the climb into four parts below, each covering a different stage of the expedition and linking to its complete story and photographs.
Explore the Low Camps →
The lower mountain is generally the warmest part of a Denali expedition, but that certainly doesn’t make it easy. Climbers begin their journey on the Kahiltna Glacier, traveling through deep snow while carrying some of the heaviest loads of the entire climb. Hidden crevasses, changing snow conditions, and long distances make even the relatively gentle terrain physically demanding.
Heavy backpacks and loaded sleds turn the gradual ascent into an exhausting undertaking. These first days introduce climbers to the realities of glacier travel, establishing camps in the snow, and transporting enough equipment and food to remain self-sufficient for weeks.
Explore Advanced Base Camp →
As the West Buttress Route climbs toward Advanced Base Camp at approximately 14,200 feet, the terrain becomes considerably steeper. Climbers ascend sections such as Ski Hill and Motorcycle Hill, negotiate Windy Corner, and progressively move their supplies higher as the mountain becomes more demanding.
Advanced Base Camp is one of the most important locations on Denali. Situated in a broad glacial basin beneath the mountain’s upper slopes, it serves as a base for acclimatization, rest, and carrying equipment toward High Camp. Expeditions frequently spend several days here, waiting for suitable conditions to continue.
Weather becomes an increasingly important factor at this elevation. Strong winds, heavy snowfall, and poor visibility can keep climbers confined to their tents, sometimes for days. Even when a team is physically prepared to climb higher, the mountain may not provide an opportunity.
Explore High Camp →
Spectacular mountain scenery and severe weather define the upper West Buttress. The ascent from Advanced Base Camp to High Camp includes some of the most technical and exposed terrain on the standard route, with steep snow and ice slopes leading toward the famous fixed ropes.
Above the fixed ropes, climbers reach the crest of the West Buttress, where the route follows an increasingly exposed ridge with enormous views over the surrounding glaciers and mountains. Sections of rock, snow, and narrow ridgeline demand careful movement, particularly when carrying heavy packs at altitude.
High Camp sits at approximately 17,200 feet (5,240 meters), exposed to powerful winds and extreme cold. Although the summit is only a few thousand feet higher, climbers must still contend with altitude, exhaustion, dangerous terrain, and the possibility of rapidly deteriorating weather. Reaching High Camp is a major achievement, but the most important day of the expedition still lies ahead.
Explore the Summit →
After weeks of hauling equipment, establishing camps, acclimatizing, and waiting for favorable weather, the expedition comes down to one final ascent. Summit day on Denali is a demanding undertaking, with climbers leaving High Camp at approximately 17,200 feet and attempting to reach the highest point in North America.
The route climbs toward Denali Pass before continuing across the upper mountain, eventually reaching the summit ridge. Extreme cold, strong winds, thin air, and the physical demands of climbing above 20,000 feet make this final stage especially challenging. The exposed summit ridge offers extraordinary views, but it also requires concentration and careful movement.
By this point, an expedition has already endured weeks of hard work, spectacular scenery, long periods of waiting, exhaustion, and unpredictable weather. Reaching Denali’s 20,310-foot summit brings those experiences together at the highest point on the North American continent, although the long descent remains an essential part of completing the climb.
