Located along the western end of Lake Superior, Duluth was much larger than I expected. I had pictured a medium-sized lake town, but instead found a real city with a downtown skyline, busy streets, neighborhoods climbing the hills, and a population of around 85,000 people.
Duluth even had enough activity downtown that people were lined up waiting for the city bus. I’ve visited some medium-sized cities in the Midwest where downtown felt nearly empty, so Duluth immediately came across as more active than I had expected.
My main reason for coming to Duluth was Lake Superior, so I didn’t spend all of my time exploring the city itself. Still, a few buildings caught my attention. This massive structure looked important enough that I assumed it was some major civic landmark. I was surprised to learn that it was the historic Duluth Central High School, easily one of the most impressive school buildings I’ve ever seen.
The surrounding neighborhoods had a mix of older homes built along the hills above the lake. Most looked comfortable and well kept, although every once in a while I’d come across a house that looked considerably rougher than its neighbors.
Lakewalk
Duluth’s biggest attraction for me was naturally the Lake Superior waterfront. The Lakewalk is one of the easiest ways to explore it, following the shoreline past parks, restaurants, shops, historic buildings, and open views across the lake.
This ivy-covered complex is Fitger’s, a historic brewery property that has been converted into a hotel, restaurants, shops, and other businesses. It fits perfectly along the lakefront and was one of several stops that made the Lakewalk feel more like part of the city than simply a recreational trail.
I happened to visit on a nearly perfect summer day, which made the waterfront especially enjoyable. Lake Superior is so large that looking across it feels much more like looking out to sea than standing beside an ordinary freshwater lake.
I passed the Portland Malt Shoppe along the way and somehow managed not to stop. Even though Duluth doesn’t exactly have a reputation for extreme summer heat, ice cream on a warm sunny day beside Lake Superior sounded pretty tempting.
I was also curious what this same area would feel like during the middle of winter. Duluth is known for serious cold and snow, so the lively summer waterfront I experienced would probably look completely different a few months later.
History Along the Waterfront
I came across two statues along the Lakewalk that introduced me to some local history. The first was Jay Cooke, a financier whose investments in railroads and development played an important role in the growth of Duluth and the surrounding region during the 19th century.
I found the Leif Erikson statue more unusual. Erikson was a Norse explorer who reached North America around the year 1000, centuries before Columbus. This was the first major statue of him I remember seeing, which made it stand out. Columbus receives far more attention in American history because his voyages were followed by permanent European colonization, but Erikson’s earlier journey remains an important part of the continent’s history.
Leif Erikson Park
My favorite part of Duluth was easily Leif Erikson Park. The Lakewalk leads directly through the area, where lawns, gardens, rocky shoreline, and open views across Lake Superior made it a perfect place to stop for a while.
The park was surprisingly crowded when I visited. People were sitting along the rocks and watching the lake, while others were walking the shoreline or waiting for boats to pass.
Despite some of the extreme cold expeditions I’ve done elsewhere, I wasn’t brave enough to go swimming in Lake Superior. These kids didn’t seem to mind nearly as much, although judging by how quickly they were getting in and out, the water wasn’t exactly tropical.
The highlight of my visit came when several tall sailing ships passed along the lake. Their arrival explained some of the crowds gathered around the waterfront, and watching these old-style sailing vessels move across Lake Superior was easily the most memorable part of the day.
Duluth ended up being far more interesting than the small lake town I had imagined before arriving. The city itself had more size and activity than I expected, while the Lakewalk, Leif Erikson Park, historic buildings, and enormous scale of Lake Superior gave me plenty to explore. For me, Duluth was one of the best surprises from my trip through Minnesota.
