Visiting New Delhi

I used New Delhi as a base for much of this trip, leaving and returning several times as I traveled to neighboring Pakistan and other parts of northern India. Delhi has thousands of years of history, while modern India gained independence from British rule in 1947. Above is India Gate, one of New Delhi’s most recognizable landmarks. Completed during the period of British rule, the monument commemorates soldiers of the Indian Army who died during World War I and other conflicts.

One of the most famous figures of the 20th century is Mahatma Gandhi, and visiting a museum dedicated to his life was one of the most meaningful historical experiences I had in New Delhi. Gandhi is remembered around the world for his philosophy of nonviolent resistance and his role in India’s independence movement. The museum follows his life through photographs, quotations, documents, and personal belongings. Some of the most powerful artifacts include his pocket watch and clothing associated with his assassination, although photography of certain items was prohibited.

One of the first things I noticed while exploring Delhi was how dramatically the city could change from one neighborhood to another. Broad avenues, landscaped areas, and modern buildings could give way to crowded streets, older neighborhoods, markets, and scenes of everyday life that felt completely different. That contrast made simply walking around the city interesting because I never really knew what the next street would look like.

Even in the middle of such an enormous capital, I regularly came across scenes that reminded me how much traditional life remained mixed into the modern city. I found these goats being kept along a street and passed them again several weeks later when I returned to the same area. Scenes like this could exist surprisingly close to some of Delhi’s busiest commercial districts.

Other parts of Delhi were incredibly crowded with people, vehicles, restaurants, and shops. I spent plenty of time wandering through these neighborhoods and once stopped at a small local restaurant for tandoori chicken. Connaught Place offered a completely different experience, with a huge circular commercial district filled with Indian and international stores, restaurants, and hotels. Built during the British era, it remains one of the city’s major shopping and entertainment areas.

While exploring the capital I came across several women selling bracelets and offering henna designs. I actually wanted to buy a bracelet from one of them and stopped while she was giving henna to several women nearby. Another woman began trying to give me henna as well. I initially declined, but eventually gave in and let her finish a design on my upper arm. By then I had somehow attracted a small crowd of people watching the entire experience, turning what should have been a quick stop into another memorable moment from the trip.

While in Delhi I was invited to visit a Sikh gurdwara. I knew very little about Sikhism at the time, so entering the temple became an unexpected opportunity to learn about a religion I would encounter again during my travels through northern India. What impressed me most was the emphasis on equality, service, and welcoming visitors regardless of their religion or background. Above are musicians performing inside the complex and another view from the gurdwara.

The community kitchen was one of the most interesting parts of my visit. Sikh gurdwaras traditionally serve a free communal meal known as langar, prepared by volunteers and offered to everyone regardless of religion, background, or social status. Hundreds of people could eat here, with volunteers working together to prepare the food. I spent some time trying to flip pieces of bread dough on a large heated plate. I ruined a few at first, but after about ten minutes I was starting to get pretty good at it.

I also spent some time shopping in one of Delhi’s spice markets. I bought spices to bring home along with a few snacks for the rest of my trip. The variety was incredible, and some of what I saw was completely unfamiliar to me. One amusing moment came when I noticed a large barrel of almonds and asked the shop owner where in India they had been grown. His answer was California!

Some of my favorite memories of Delhi came simply from wandering through its streets and alleys. Every area seemed to have its own character. One street might open into a large public space, while another became a maze of narrow lanes packed with vendors and shops. I came across the gathering photographed above while passing through the city, and a local told me the people were protesting against the government. Elsewhere I walked beneath enormous tangles of electrical wires and through crowded commercial alleys where almost every available space seemed to be in use.

There was always something happening along these streets. I passed small neighborhood businesses like this barbershop and regularly saw people transporting goods by hand through areas where larger vehicles would have struggled to navigate. Exploring on foot gave me a much closer look at everyday life than I would have experienced by simply traveling between Delhi’s major attractions.

The very first major attraction I visited in India was the famous Red Fort. Commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and completed during the 17th century, the enormous complex served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors after the imperial capital was moved to Delhi. I was already impressed by the sheer scale of the massive red sandstone walls before I had even gone inside.

Once inside, I was surprised again by how large the Red Fort complex really was and how many structures stood behind its walls. Palaces, audience halls, gardens, and other buildings filled what felt more like a small city than a single fortress. Among its most famous structures is the Diwan-i-Khas, or Hall of Private Audiences, where the Mughal emperor met important guests and officials.

The Red Fort continued to play an important role long after the height of the Mughal Empire. British forces eventually occupied the complex, and after the Indian Rebellion of 1857 many of its original buildings were demolished or altered for military use. Some structures from the British period remain alongside the older Mughal architecture, giving the fort visible layers from very different periods of India’s history.

Even with all the history surrounding me, I couldn’t help noticing some of the wildlife and vegetation inside the Red Fort. These small striped squirrels were common during my travels in northern India and eastern Pakistan and were noticeably smaller than the squirrels I was used to seeing back home. I was also fascinated by some of the enormous trees growing throughout the complex.

During my final days in Delhi I moved to a neighborhood within walking distance of the New Delhi Railway Station. With so many travelers passing through, the area was packed with hotels, restaurants, shops, rickshaws, and travel agencies. It was convenient, but it was also one of those places where I quickly learned to be skeptical of anyone offering a deal that sounded unusually good. Some businesses advertised themselves in ways that made them appear official, while drivers occasionally offered cheap rides and then tried to take me to shops or travel agencies where they could receive a commission.

Whatever occasional frustrations came with staying near the station were easily outweighed by having India’s enormous railway network practically outside my door. The station was constantly packed with people, and traveling by train became an adventure of its own. On one eight-hour daytime journey I rode in one of the cheapest classes, surrounded by friendly passengers in the heat and humidity. At one point I fell asleep and woke up convinced someone had touched my forehead. I took a picture of myself with my phone and discovered a red mark had been placed there while I slept. Apparently, I had been blessed somewhere along the journey.