Cairns

Cairns was one of the main reasons I traveled to Australia in the first place. More specifically, I wanted to dive the Great Barrier Reef.

I had seen tropical reefs before, but nothing on the scale of what waited offshore from northeastern Australia. Even from the surface, the water shifted through incredible shades of blue, and once I got underwater the reef was unlike anything I had experienced before.

I enjoyed the diving so much that I went out on five dives over two different days.

Heading Out to the Great Barrier Reef

Coast near Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef
The tropical coast around Cairns.
School of fish near the Great Barrier Reef
A school of fish passing through the clear water.

Even before getting into the water, the reef looked different from anything I had seen before. The colors of the ocean alone were impressive.

Once underwater, it got much better.

There were huge coral formations, schools of fish moving in every direction, giant clams, sea turtles, rays, and fish far larger than anything I had encountered on my previous dives.

Still a New Diver

Large fish on the Great Barrier Reef
One of the larger fish I encountered on the reef.
Very large fish encountered while diving the Great Barrier Reef
This was the largest fish I had ever seen while diving.

This was still very early in my diving life. I had earned my scuba certification only about a year earlier and had used it just once since then, in Hawaii.

So the Great Barrier Reef was one of my first major diving experiences.

That probably made it even harder to top afterward.

One fish looked like it might have weighed around 70 pounds. Another was absolutely enormous—at least several times larger than I was. It came close enough that I could actually see its teeth.

I had no idea exactly what species it was at the time.

I did know it was gigantic.

Colors Beneath the Surface

Blue coral on the Great Barrier Reef
Some of the brilliant blue coral closer to the surface.
Sea turtle on the Great Barrier Reef
A sea turtle swimming through the reef.

One thing that becomes obvious very quickly while scuba diving is how fast colors disappear as you descend.

Red and other warmer colors fade first, and the deeper you go the more everything shifts toward blue and green unless you use artificial light.

That meant some of my photographs didn’t capture the reef the way it actually looked to me underwater.

The bright blue coral above was relatively close to the surface, so more of its color remained visible.

Giant Clams

Giant clam on the Great Barrier Reef
One of the giant clams I saw while diving.
Large colorful giant clam on the Great Barrier Reef
Another giant clam deeper on the reef.

The giant clams were another thing that stood out.

Some were sitting thirty or forty feet below the surface and looked almost built into the reef itself. Their size and colors made them completely different from the small clams I was used to seeing back home.

Life Everywhere

Coral formations on the Great Barrier Reef
Coral formations covering the reef.
Large school of colorful fish on the Great Barrier Reef
Schools of fish seemed to be everywhere.

The scale of the Great Barrier Reef is difficult to appreciate from a single dive site. It stretches for an enormous distance along Australia’s northeastern coast, and I could only experience a tiny part of it during my visit.

Even that tiny part felt overloaded with life.

Huge coral formations covered the bottom while hundreds of fish moved above and between them. I also saw a sea turtle, manta rays, and a small eel during my dives.

Every time I looked somewhere else there seemed to be another animal.

Five Dives Still Weren’t Enough

I ended up doing five dives over two days, which felt like a lot at the time.

It still wasn’t enough.

The Great Barrier Reef was easily the best diving experience I had encountered that early in my travels, and years later it remained extremely difficult to beat.

I’d also love to return with better underwater camera equipment. These photos were taken very early in both my diving and travel photography, and they don’t come close to showing how impressive the reef looked in person.

I was also happy to avoid one particular Australian specialty: dangerous jellyfish.

I had heard plenty about them before arriving, but fortunately they were more of a concern closer to shore than at the offshore reef sites where I was diving.

Why I Came to Cairns

I had rushed through Sydney because I was so determined to get north to Cairns.

After finally reaching the Great Barrier Reef, I understood why.

I was still a new diver, and suddenly I was swimming among giant clams, sea turtles, rays, huge schools of fish, enormous coral formations, and at least one fish large enough that I seriously noticed its teeth.

There were plenty of other things around Cairns that I wanted to explore, especially the tropical rainforest, but the reef was the main reason I had come.

Five dives later, it was still the reason I remembered Cairns most.

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