George: I'm no guide but I'd think that anyone who is in their teens or older would be able to summit the
mountain provided they are in shape and will enjoy this type of activity. As far as comparing Kilimanjaro to Elbrus
I personally believe Elbrus is a slightly harder mountain. On Kilimanjaro I felt like a tourist going hiking while on
Elbrus I felt more like a climber. The altitude is about the same, but Elbrus is much colder, (covered in snow &
glaciers), and the summit day is more demanding than Kilimanjaro's. I believe anyone who can climb Kilimanjaro
can also climb Elbrus as long as they do some additional training and are prepared for the colder weather.
mountain provided they are in shape and will enjoy this type of activity. As far as comparing Kilimanjaro to Elbrus
I personally believe Elbrus is a slightly harder mountain. On Kilimanjaro I felt like a tourist going hiking while on
Elbrus I felt more like a climber. The altitude is about the same, but Elbrus is much colder, (covered in snow &
glaciers), and the summit day is more demanding than Kilimanjaro's. I believe anyone who can climb Kilimanjaro
can also climb Elbrus as long as they do some additional training and are prepared for the colder weather.
| Mt. Elbrus |
| Mt. Elbrus is another one of the 7 summits of the world and stands at 18,510 feet. Mt. Elbrus is pretty much hiking similar to Mt. Kilimanjaro, but Mt. Elbrus is much more dangerous in comparison. You can climb Mt. Kilimanjaro with just hiking boots, but on Mt. Elbrus you will need climbing boots with crampons and an ice axe. When I went in August 06, more people had died on Mt. Elbrus than Mt. Everest so far that year. Mt. Elbrus is no where near as dangerous as Mt. Everest, but often inexperienced climbers attempt Elbrus without the proper gear. Some people think if the mountain isn't Mt. Everest or K2 then it's not challenging and not dangerous. Every large mountain should be taken seriously, and I actually made several mistakes myself and even had a very close call during the climb! |
| The two photos above where taken from local hikes from the hotel. Here I got an excellent view of Mt. Elbrus and of course a chance to help my body acclimatize. The hikes were challenging because of the higher altitude, but nothing that I hadn't prepared for. Once the real climb began, that is when things began to get interesting, and not in a good way. As I mentioned before I made some mistakes which happened the day before we were supposed to summit. Our group was descending from 15,000 feet to our camp after an acclimatization climb. Everyone broke up from the group and we all went at our own pace. I was doing fine but noticed that I was alone and I didn't see anyone in sight. I continued descending but after some time without seeing anyone, I became concerned that maybe I was following the wrong trail. You can easily see the summit from our camp, and from where I was standing it seemed like I was too far to the left of the summit. I thought maybe another trail had split off to the right that I might have missed, so I made the foolish decision to cut across a hill to see if I could see people on the other side. If I didn't, then I had planned to return to where I was and continue down the trail I had been on. About half a mile above me was a Russian camp so I figured since I was in the sight of people I couldn't get lost and would try to give it a shot. I hiked for about 20 minutes and when the view of the other side of the hill came into place I saw there was no camp or other people in sight. The 'trails' I write about are nothing but footprints in the snow, so even if there was another trail a few hundred feet away I wouldn't be able to make it out. By luck, it was around this time some people from the Russian camp saw me and came up to the hill and began yelling. I had no idea why they were yelling or what they were saying because they so far away. I took a few steps towards them and then my leg went straight into the snow. I was able to catch myself with my arms and my left leg which was lying horizontally across the snow while I held myself. Then I realized what the problem was and why I was told to go back; I was standing right in the middle of a crevasse field! Crevasses are holes in the ground that can be 10 feet to 100 feet deep. I pulled myself out and looked into the hole and I could not see the bottom. The snow field I was in now looked no different then the snow we had been hiking on earlier, so there was no way I could tell how deep the crevasses were or where other crevasses in the area were. I took out my ski pole and poked around in the ground. Everywhere around me my ski pole went straight through the ground all the way up to my wrist with no resistance. I spent about 20 minutes poking my way out and zigzagged to safety. At one point I had to jump over a very long but skinny crack in the ground that was probably 50 feet in length. The whole time while I was doing this I had about 30 figures up on the rocks watching to see if I would make it out or not. Once in the Russian camp everyone was extremely nice to me and gave me lots of food and made me do shots of vodka saying where I was at was extremely dangerous. I was taken inside a Soviet airplane that they were camping in and was told to stay the night. I didn't want to be rude so I took the vodka shots they offered and before I knew it they had given five toasts so I was pretty buzzed. I didn't mind spending the night in the airplane but someone from my group came inside a few hours later as everyone else was still looking for me. Back at the camp the guides said we had to celebrate for a happy ending which meant several more shots of vodka. The bottom left is a picture of the Caucasus mountains taken at about 12,000 feet. The right is a photo of me inside the soviet airplane at 14,000 feet right before I take my first vodka shots. Lesson learned; where there is snow there could be crevasses, never explore new terrain solo. |
| Above is a picture of the slope of Elbrus at about 15,000 feet. Near the top of the summit it gets much steeper and you'll need to use your ice axe to continue. It's more difficult to take photos at the higher altitudes because it's extremely cold and the lack of oxygen makes everything you do much harder. Taking a photo doesn't take that much effort itself, but you have to consider stopping, then taking off your pack, pulling your camera out and then having the group wait on you. I didn't take any photos above 15,000 feet except for the ones at the summit. The photo on the right is me at the summit on 8/8/06. |
| Russia Links |
| Mt. Elbrus is part of the Caucasus range that divides Europe and Asia. Above are the first real views I had of the Caucasus mountains. On the left you can see a small town in the valley below, which is where we stayed at before our climb. On the right you can see some snow above in the middle of August. |
| The town around Elbrus seemed pretty run down. Here are some photos from the area you'll likely stay in before going up the mountain. The town is very small but has a few shops and places to eat, and at least one internet cafe. |
| Our hotel by the mountain wasn't very impressive either. The inside was surprisingly pretty nice though. This is located at about 7,000 feet, and you'll spend at least one night in town to begin acclimatizing. |
George: Thanks Hao, I would highly recommend using plastic boots for Mt. Elbrus! I passed by/talked with
dozens of other climbers on Mt. Elbrus and everyone had plastic boots. Leather boots are good for hiking but not
for longer periods of time in snowy or icy conditions. The disadvantage with leather boots is that even with water
repellent they can eventually soak up melted snow and ice and will become very difficult to dry. Damp boots high
up on a mountain can be pretty dangerous and will probably mean you have to give up the summit if you find
yourself in this situation. If you are not sure whether to make the purchase then you should just rent boots for Mt.
Elbrus as I did. If you are doing a guided climb they should have plenty to offer for a reasonable price.
dozens of other climbers on Mt. Elbrus and everyone had plastic boots. Leather boots are good for hiking but not
for longer periods of time in snowy or icy conditions. The disadvantage with leather boots is that even with water
repellent they can eventually soak up melted snow and ice and will become very difficult to dry. Damp boots high
up on a mountain can be pretty dangerous and will probably mean you have to give up the summit if you find
yourself in this situation. If you are not sure whether to make the purchase then you should just rent boots for Mt.
Elbrus as I did. If you are doing a guided climb they should have plenty to offer for a reasonable price.
George: Hi Claudio, I imagine that since you are from Italy you probably have some climbing experience already.
As Elbrus is mostly just hiking, the only technical aspect you should worry about is using an ice axe for self
arresting since you will have some steep ice slopes. The size of your pack is also a common question. Many
groups also use the barrel huts as a base camp and from there you go directly to the summit, if you do this itinerary
you will never have to carry your own pack, only a day pack. The only real big tip I think maybe to bring some of
your own food since you will burn up to 12,000 calories on summit day for example. Many people didn't like the
food that was served on our climb so it is sometimes difficult to force youself to eat nasty food at high altitude.
Every person has their own preference of course, some liked the food but most did not, but this also will differ
between companies. Good luck on the climb, let me know how it goes!
As Elbrus is mostly just hiking, the only technical aspect you should worry about is using an ice axe for self
arresting since you will have some steep ice slopes. The size of your pack is also a common question. Many
groups also use the barrel huts as a base camp and from there you go directly to the summit, if you do this itinerary
you will never have to carry your own pack, only a day pack. The only real big tip I think maybe to bring some of
your own food since you will burn up to 12,000 calories on summit day for example. Many people didn't like the
food that was served on our climb so it is sometimes difficult to force youself to eat nasty food at high altitude.
Every person has their own preference of course, some liked the food but most did not, but this also will differ
between companies. Good luck on the climb, let me know how it goes!
Claudio from Italy: Hi, as we're going to attempt Elbrus summit later this month, any special final hints?
Hao from USA: Great write-up. I am climbing Mt. Elbrus this August. I am trying to decide whether to buy a pair of
plastic boots or one. I do have a pair of leather boots which I used for climbing Mt. Blanc last summer. Do you thing it
is enough?
plastic boots or one. I do have a pair of leather boots which I used for climbing Mt. Blanc last summer. Do you thing it
is enough?
| Post a question, reply or comment about climbing Mt. Elbrus. |
Lucy from England: Hi how long did it take to actually climb Mt. Elbrus?
George: Lucy, this is actually a very good question, and the real answer is it took only 1 day! Including airport
pick up and acclimatization the trip itself was 1 week long. The first day we were picked up from the airport and
taken to our hotel. The second day we did a local hike and on the third day we took a ski lift to base camp. The
fourth day was another acclimatization hike and then the next morning we climbed the whole mountain in one day
to the summit and returned to base camp. Unlike Kilimanjaro or most other mountains, you do not travel between
different points on the mountain and set up different camps. Some companies are different, but the majority have
you follow the itinerary I just mentioned; getting used to the altitude and then climbing in one day. Day 6 is a
reserve day in case of bad weather, and day 7 or 8 takes you back to the hotel and then airport.
pick up and acclimatization the trip itself was 1 week long. The first day we were picked up from the airport and
taken to our hotel. The second day we did a local hike and on the third day we took a ski lift to base camp. The
fourth day was another acclimatization hike and then the next morning we climbed the whole mountain in one day
to the summit and returned to base camp. Unlike Kilimanjaro or most other mountains, you do not travel between
different points on the mountain and set up different camps. Some companies are different, but the majority have
you follow the itinerary I just mentioned; getting used to the altitude and then climbing in one day. Day 6 is a
reserve day in case of bad weather, and day 7 or 8 takes you back to the hotel and then airport.
Sebby from USA: How young do you have to be to do a summit attempt, and would you say elbrus is harder or easier
to climb then kilinmanjaro?
to climb then kilinmanjaro?
George: I'm not sure of anyone climbing Elbrus with a kilt and I'm not even sure if you can pull it off on Elbrus
but it might be possible if you layer up the rest of your body pretty well. I did meet a Scottish guy in Antarctica
who went hiking with his kilt, but it was just 0C there so it probably was much colder on Kili. I will give you the
email address of my guide, he has climbed Elbrus over 50 times! Good luck!
but it might be possible if you layer up the rest of your body pretty well. I did meet a Scottish guy in Antarctica
who went hiking with his kilt, but it was just 0C there so it probably was much colder on Kili. I will give you the
email address of my guide, he has climbed Elbrus over 50 times! Good luck!
Jock from Scotland: Would like to do elbrus in 2010! do you have any good contacts/companys, I can e mail! for
prices further information etc? has it been done in kilt before,did kilimanjaro in it,all the way,even the summit!
prices further information etc? has it been done in kilt before,did kilimanjaro in it,all the way,even the summit!
Jock from Soctland: Thanks for George, I will think long & hard about the kilt, but it would still go with me! I
have the mountains around me in Perthshire to do some good walking etc, so I would love to visit Russia and of
course do Elbrus, and have the odd pint or 10 with the locals,aye Jock
have the mountains around me in Perthshire to do some good walking etc, so I would love to visit Russia and of
course do Elbrus, and have the odd pint or 10 with the locals,aye Jock
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Dave from USA: George, How heavy was your pack on summit day? Also, was there a place to keep extra gear while
doing the summit? Thanks
doing the summit? Thanks
George: David, You will have a base camp or be staying in the barrel huts where you can leave most of your
gear, so you'll only bring with you what you need for summit day. If you figure my camera, lunch, and the liter of
water I was carrying were each a couple pounds, plus an extra layer or two in case you get cold, I'd figure my
pack was around 10lbs.
gear, so you'll only bring with you what you need for summit day. If you figure my camera, lunch, and the liter of
water I was carrying were each a couple pounds, plus an extra layer or two in case you get cold, I'd figure my
pack was around 10lbs.
Catherine from Hong Kong: Thanks so much, George, for sharing your story and for your information. I'm planning to
go to Mt Elbrus this coming July or August (2010). I'm pretty serious about this trip, as I went to Kilimanjaro to see if I
can handle the altitude and to S. Korea for learning cramponing techniques.
go to Mt Elbrus this coming July or August (2010). I'm pretty serious about this trip, as I went to Kilimanjaro to see if I
can handle the altitude and to S. Korea for learning cramponing techniques.
George: For Elbrus being physically fit is the most important concern. The first time I ever put crampons on in my
life and used an ice axe was on Mt. Elbrus. Of course it's certainly better to get some experience before hand but
it's not absolutely essential. Part of most climbing itineraries on this mountain do include a course on self arresting
with your ice axe on acclimatization days.
life and used an ice axe was on Mt. Elbrus. Of course it's certainly better to get some experience before hand but
it's not absolutely essential. Part of most climbing itineraries on this mountain do include a course on self arresting
with your ice axe on acclimatization days.
Hannah from USA: Hi George, how important is it to have prior experience with crampons and ice axes, etc? Is it
possible to practice these techniques during the acclimatization days, and if you're physically fit, would this be enough?
possible to practice these techniques during the acclimatization days, and if you're physically fit, would this be enough?
Maxim from Russia: Just a short note about Elbrus: it is not a technical climb (unless you climb it not by the "highway",
but from the West), however, it's known for sudden changes of weather. When you are on its slopes do not be
complacent, keep in mind that Reinhold Messner himself did not manage to reach the top from the first attempt following
the normal route.
but from the West), however, it's known for sudden changes of weather. When you are on its slopes do not be
complacent, keep in mind that Reinhold Messner himself did not manage to reach the top from the first attempt following
the normal route.