| Mt. Aconcagua |
| The purpose of the page is to give anyone who is interested in climbing Aconcagua a rundown on what to bring and what to expect. I'll also compare this to other mountains I've climbed and share my training program which worked for me. See my main Aconcagua page for my trip report where I share dozens of photos and write about the day to day experiences while climbing. |
| Aconcagua Links |
There are two types of people who judge Aconcagua. The first type are average Joe Shmoe's like me who are
amateur climbers and only do the sport a few times a year if that for a hobby. The second type are professionals
who frequently do technical climbs around the world and here and there maybe even an 8,000 meter peak.
Some professional climbers look down on mountains that are non-technical and are relatively straight routes to the
summit. When you come across websites written by these types of people, you will hear things like, "one of the
easiest high altitude mountains", "wear your tennis shoes" "walk to the summit" "no experience necessary" etc. All
these claims are actually true. Considering 8,000 and most 7,000 meter peaks, which would be the most difficult and
dangerous in the world, Aconcagua is of course easy in comparison. The main routes don't involve climbing walls or
crossing crevasses, so no technical experience is essential. This information is good to be shared with other
professional climbers, but it creates a problem for amateur climbers. Should a new climber go to Aconcagua with the
mindset that this is an easy mountain where you 'walk' to the top and that no experience is necessary? Absolutely not!
It's this mindset among inexperienced climbers that causes Aconcagua to have one of the highest failure rates and
death tolls in the world. Common problems are people underestimating the cold and weather, underestimating the
altitude, and not being physical fit. If you've never done any serious climbing and are interested in Aconcagua, then
you should plan and expect this challenge to be the hardest thing you will have done so far in your life.
amateur climbers and only do the sport a few times a year if that for a hobby. The second type are professionals
who frequently do technical climbs around the world and here and there maybe even an 8,000 meter peak.
Some professional climbers look down on mountains that are non-technical and are relatively straight routes to the
summit. When you come across websites written by these types of people, you will hear things like, "one of the
easiest high altitude mountains", "wear your tennis shoes" "walk to the summit" "no experience necessary" etc. All
these claims are actually true. Considering 8,000 and most 7,000 meter peaks, which would be the most difficult and
dangerous in the world, Aconcagua is of course easy in comparison. The main routes don't involve climbing walls or
crossing crevasses, so no technical experience is essential. This information is good to be shared with other
professional climbers, but it creates a problem for amateur climbers. Should a new climber go to Aconcagua with the
mindset that this is an easy mountain where you 'walk' to the top and that no experience is necessary? Absolutely not!
It's this mindset among inexperienced climbers that causes Aconcagua to have one of the highest failure rates and
death tolls in the world. Common problems are people underestimating the cold and weather, underestimating the
altitude, and not being physical fit. If you've never done any serious climbing and are interested in Aconcagua, then
you should plan and expect this challenge to be the hardest thing you will have done so far in your life.
| What's Aconcagua like? |
This information is easily found all over the internet, but I will also share my specific training that actually got me all the way up to
the summit. First off, all of this information is different of course for every person, but in general you should train at least 4 months
prior to arriving to Aconcagua. Of course if you're completely out of shape then you may want to start as early as 6 months
prior. Many websites suggest different types of training, but all agree that actually climbing mountains is the best way to get in
shape for one. Depending on where you live, this might not be an option, so you'll have to rely on the gym, stair climbing and
other exercises. Below are some key workouts.
Mountain Climbing - Like I said before, climbing mountains is the best way to get in shape for them. When I trained I carried a
70lb pack and hiked until I got an elevation gain of 2,200 feet. Websites suggest getting at least 3,000 feet gain, but where I live
I didn't have this option. The weight you carry should start off easy and slowly build up. The most I carried on Aconcagua was
45lbs, so training with 70lbs was more than enough.
Stair Climbing - After climbing mountains themselves, stair climbing is another great exercise. The mountains I trained in were
over an hour away, so sometimes I went to a hotel and climbed to the 14th floor and then took the elevator down and then
climbed back up again. The problem with stair climbing is you don't get the random terrain that you'll have when you're on
Aconcagua. With stairs they are all spaced the same distance and are all flat. On Aconcagua you'll be on steep terrain and will
take steps on uneven ground while balancing yourself and your pack.
Gym - The gym is a great place to get in shape of course. The biggest problem with the gym, at least for me, is that it gets very
boring after an hour, where as if I go hiking I can easily do it for half the day. In the gym there are many exercises that can help
you train for mountaineering. Of course you want to focus on your legs, doing things like squats, leg press, and calf exercises.
.
Running - Running is good for burning fat and training your heart and lungs. By running often you can lower your heart rate and
also build your long term endurance.
Mountain Biking - This is a fun sport that focuses on your legs and will build endurance, and like running will help your heart.
Plenty of other exercises can be beneficial as well. A big part of getting in shape though is not just working out but also getting
enough sleep and watching what you eat. I'm terrible at eating out, for me its just something I do socially with my friends on a
daily basis. Before climbing Aconcagua I had a very difficult time watching what I eat, but I did manage and stayed dedicated.
Below is my actual training record. I believe keeping a record is a great way to see results and motivate yourself to keep training.
Date Weight Night W Waist Exercises
11/15/2007 174 175 36 Rest Rest
11/16/2007 175 176 36 Rest Rest
11/17/2007 174 175 35.75 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 15 Miles Total Super Work Out
11/18/2007 175 176 35.75 Rest Rest
11/19/2007 174 175 35.75 Rest Rest
11/20/2007 172 174 35.75 Bike Ride, 30 Minutes Work Out
11/21/2007 174 174 36 Rest Rest
11/22/2007 173 174 36 (Traveling NYC) Rest
11/23/2007 174 172 35.7 (Traveling, Gym NYC) Work Out
11/24/2007 173 173 35.75 (Traveling NYC)Running, Stair Climbing Rest
11/25/2007 173 172 35.5 Rest Rest
11/26/2007 173 174 35.5 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
11/27/2007 173 172 35.75 6.4 Mile Run @ 1 Hour 0% Incline, XC, 35P Work Out
11/28/2007 172 174 35.75 XC 40P Work Out
11/29/2007 173 172 35.5 Lower/Upper Body Work Out Work Out
11/30/2007 173 172 35.5 Bike Ride, 20M Work Out
12/1/2007 173 172 35.75 6 Mile Hike @ 60lbs Super Work Out
12/2/2007 173 172 35.75 9 Mile Hike @ 40lbs Super Work Out
12/3/2007 173 172 35.5 Rest Day Rest
12/4/2007 172 171 35.5 6.2 Mile Run @1H 0%I Work Out
12/5/2007 170 172 35.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out Work Out
12/6/2007 169 173 35.25 Rest Day (Opera) Rest
12/7/2007 172 172 35 Rest Day (Long Hours) Rest
12/8/2007 171 172 35 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
12/9/2007 170 171 35 Bike Machine Level 10 @45min Work Out
12/10/2007 171 170 35.25 Leg Pressx6, leg liftx3, 450C Calfx3, 25 pull ups Work Out
12/11/2007 170 170 34.75 Rest Day Rest
12/12/2007 169 171 35 50 Mile Bike Ride RT to Work Super Work Out
12/13/2007 170 170 35 Rest Day (Long Hours) Rest
12/14/2007 170 170 34.75 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
12/15/2007 169 169 34.75 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/16/2007 168 171 34.5 Stair Climbing, 1400 steps @ 65lbs Work Out
12/17/2007 169 170 34.75 4 Miles Wind Sprints, Crunches Work Out
12/18/2007 169 170 34.75 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/19/2007 168 169 34.5 Rest (Long Hours) Rest
12/20/2007 168 170 34.25 Walking 15% Incline 45 Minutes Work Out
12/21/2007 169 169 34.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
12/22/2007 168 170 34.5 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/23/2007 169 169 34.5 Rest Rest
12/24/2007 168 170 34.25 30 Minute Bike Ride Work Out
12/25/2007 169 171 34 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
12/26/2007 169 170 34.25 Rest Rest
12/27/2007 169 169 34.75 Walking 15% Incline 20 Minutes Back, Bicep Lifting Work Out
12/28/2007 169 169 34.75 Bike Ride 40 Minutes Work Out
12/29/2007 169 169 34.75 Traveling (Disney World) Rest
12/30/2007 169 169 34.5 Traveling (4 Mile Hike flat terrain @60lbs) Work Out
12/31/2007 168 168 34.5 Traveling (4 Mile Hike flat terrain @60lbs) Work Out
1/1/2008 168 168 34.5 Traveling (Savannah/New Years) Rest
1/2/2008 167 166 34.5 1 Hour jog 7.5% Incline, Crunches Work Out
1/3/2008 167 166 34.5 Rest Rest
1/4/2008 166 166 34.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
1/5/2008 167 166 34.25 Rest Rest
1/6/2008 165 166 34 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
1/7/2008 165 166 34 Crunches, stretches, walking Work Out
1/8/2008 166 165 34.25 4 Mile Lake Run with hills, 31:51 (New Record) Work Out
1/9/2008 165 168 33.75 Rest Rest
1/10/2008 167 168 34 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
1/11/2008 167 168 34 4 Mile Lake Hike with hills@70lbs (Flight to Sudan) Work Out
1/12/2008 167 168 34 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/13/2008 167 168 34 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/14/2008 166 167 33.75 30 Minutes wind sprints Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/15/2008 166 167 33.75 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/16/2008 166 167 33.75 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/17/2008 166 167 33.75 Stair Climbing 30 Minutes @35lbsTraveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/18/2008 165 166 33.5 Push Ups, Jumping Jacks, Leg Raises Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/19/2008 165 166 33.5 Scuba Diving, Push ups Crunches Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/20/2008 165 166 33.5 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/21/2008 165 166 33.25 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/22/2008 165 164 33.25 Traveling (Flight home from Sudan) Rest
1/23/2008 162 161 33.25 2200' Climb @ 75lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
1/24/2008 161 164 33 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 3 sets of 7 work outs Work Out
1/25/2008 163 162 33 Rest Rest
1/26/2008 162 162 33.25 30Min 7.5 Inc Run, 15 Min Hike, Crunches Work Out
1/27/2008 160 162 33 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
1/28/2008 162 163 33.25 Rest Rest
1/29/2008 163 164 33.25 Incline Hiking, 55lbs Work Out
1/30/2008 164 165 33.25 30 Min Run, Crunches, 20 Minute Incline Walk Work Out
1/31/2008 164 164 33.5 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi/Legs 5 sets of 9 work outs Work Out
2/1/2008 164 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/2/2008 164 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/3/2008 163 164 33.5 1500' Climb @ 65lb, Descend 40lb, 5 Miles Total Work Out
2/4/2008 163 164 33.5 1 Hour 15 Incline, 65lbs Work Out
2/5/2008 163 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/6/2008 163 164 33.5 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
2/7/2008 161 162 33.25 Lower Body Lifting, 20 Minute Incline, Crunches Work Out
2/8/2008 161 162 33.25 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
2/9/2008 162 162 33.25 4 Mile Hike with 70lb on flat terrain Work Out
2/10/2008 161 162 33.25 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
You can see that this is only 3 months of working out and that I started off pretty light. I actually began to train 6 months prior
but because of an injury I had to stop for 2 months. You can also see that I traveled during my training and it definitely took a toll
but I was still able to do some type of exercises. If I can visit Sudan and go jogging and stair climbing then you should be able to
do some type of work out in just about any country. I also tried to do at least one super work out per week. I consider a super
work out any activity that is pretty intense and lasts over 4 hours.
the summit. First off, all of this information is different of course for every person, but in general you should train at least 4 months
prior to arriving to Aconcagua. Of course if you're completely out of shape then you may want to start as early as 6 months
prior. Many websites suggest different types of training, but all agree that actually climbing mountains is the best way to get in
shape for one. Depending on where you live, this might not be an option, so you'll have to rely on the gym, stair climbing and
other exercises. Below are some key workouts.
Mountain Climbing - Like I said before, climbing mountains is the best way to get in shape for them. When I trained I carried a
70lb pack and hiked until I got an elevation gain of 2,200 feet. Websites suggest getting at least 3,000 feet gain, but where I live
I didn't have this option. The weight you carry should start off easy and slowly build up. The most I carried on Aconcagua was
45lbs, so training with 70lbs was more than enough.
Stair Climbing - After climbing mountains themselves, stair climbing is another great exercise. The mountains I trained in were
over an hour away, so sometimes I went to a hotel and climbed to the 14th floor and then took the elevator down and then
climbed back up again. The problem with stair climbing is you don't get the random terrain that you'll have when you're on
Aconcagua. With stairs they are all spaced the same distance and are all flat. On Aconcagua you'll be on steep terrain and will
take steps on uneven ground while balancing yourself and your pack.
Gym - The gym is a great place to get in shape of course. The biggest problem with the gym, at least for me, is that it gets very
boring after an hour, where as if I go hiking I can easily do it for half the day. In the gym there are many exercises that can help
you train for mountaineering. Of course you want to focus on your legs, doing things like squats, leg press, and calf exercises.
.
Running - Running is good for burning fat and training your heart and lungs. By running often you can lower your heart rate and
also build your long term endurance.
Mountain Biking - This is a fun sport that focuses on your legs and will build endurance, and like running will help your heart.
Plenty of other exercises can be beneficial as well. A big part of getting in shape though is not just working out but also getting
enough sleep and watching what you eat. I'm terrible at eating out, for me its just something I do socially with my friends on a
daily basis. Before climbing Aconcagua I had a very difficult time watching what I eat, but I did manage and stayed dedicated.
Below is my actual training record. I believe keeping a record is a great way to see results and motivate yourself to keep training.
Date Weight Night W Waist Exercises
11/15/2007 174 175 36 Rest Rest
11/16/2007 175 176 36 Rest Rest
11/17/2007 174 175 35.75 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 15 Miles Total Super Work Out
11/18/2007 175 176 35.75 Rest Rest
11/19/2007 174 175 35.75 Rest Rest
11/20/2007 172 174 35.75 Bike Ride, 30 Minutes Work Out
11/21/2007 174 174 36 Rest Rest
11/22/2007 173 174 36 (Traveling NYC) Rest
11/23/2007 174 172 35.7 (Traveling, Gym NYC) Work Out
11/24/2007 173 173 35.75 (Traveling NYC)Running, Stair Climbing Rest
11/25/2007 173 172 35.5 Rest Rest
11/26/2007 173 174 35.5 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
11/27/2007 173 172 35.75 6.4 Mile Run @ 1 Hour 0% Incline, XC, 35P Work Out
11/28/2007 172 174 35.75 XC 40P Work Out
11/29/2007 173 172 35.5 Lower/Upper Body Work Out Work Out
11/30/2007 173 172 35.5 Bike Ride, 20M Work Out
12/1/2007 173 172 35.75 6 Mile Hike @ 60lbs Super Work Out
12/2/2007 173 172 35.75 9 Mile Hike @ 40lbs Super Work Out
12/3/2007 173 172 35.5 Rest Day Rest
12/4/2007 172 171 35.5 6.2 Mile Run @1H 0%I Work Out
12/5/2007 170 172 35.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out Work Out
12/6/2007 169 173 35.25 Rest Day (Opera) Rest
12/7/2007 172 172 35 Rest Day (Long Hours) Rest
12/8/2007 171 172 35 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
12/9/2007 170 171 35 Bike Machine Level 10 @45min Work Out
12/10/2007 171 170 35.25 Leg Pressx6, leg liftx3, 450C Calfx3, 25 pull ups Work Out
12/11/2007 170 170 34.75 Rest Day Rest
12/12/2007 169 171 35 50 Mile Bike Ride RT to Work Super Work Out
12/13/2007 170 170 35 Rest Day (Long Hours) Rest
12/14/2007 170 170 34.75 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
12/15/2007 169 169 34.75 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/16/2007 168 171 34.5 Stair Climbing, 1400 steps @ 65lbs Work Out
12/17/2007 169 170 34.75 4 Miles Wind Sprints, Crunches Work Out
12/18/2007 169 170 34.75 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/19/2007 168 169 34.5 Rest (Long Hours) Rest
12/20/2007 168 170 34.25 Walking 15% Incline 45 Minutes Work Out
12/21/2007 169 169 34.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
12/22/2007 168 170 34.5 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
12/23/2007 169 169 34.5 Rest Rest
12/24/2007 168 170 34.25 30 Minute Bike Ride Work Out
12/25/2007 169 171 34 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
12/26/2007 169 170 34.25 Rest Rest
12/27/2007 169 169 34.75 Walking 15% Incline 20 Minutes Back, Bicep Lifting Work Out
12/28/2007 169 169 34.75 Bike Ride 40 Minutes Work Out
12/29/2007 169 169 34.75 Traveling (Disney World) Rest
12/30/2007 169 169 34.5 Traveling (4 Mile Hike flat terrain @60lbs) Work Out
12/31/2007 168 168 34.5 Traveling (4 Mile Hike flat terrain @60lbs) Work Out
1/1/2008 168 168 34.5 Traveling (Savannah/New Years) Rest
1/2/2008 167 166 34.5 1 Hour jog 7.5% Incline, Crunches Work Out
1/3/2008 167 166 34.5 Rest Rest
1/4/2008 166 166 34.25 Leg Press, Lower Body Work Out, Crunches Work Out
1/5/2008 167 166 34.25 Rest Rest
1/6/2008 165 166 34 2200' Climb @ 70lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
1/7/2008 165 166 34 Crunches, stretches, walking Work Out
1/8/2008 166 165 34.25 4 Mile Lake Run with hills, 31:51 (New Record) Work Out
1/9/2008 165 168 33.75 Rest Rest
1/10/2008 167 168 34 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 5 sets of 8 work outs Work Out
1/11/2008 167 168 34 4 Mile Lake Hike with hills@70lbs (Flight to Sudan) Work Out
1/12/2008 167 168 34 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/13/2008 167 168 34 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/14/2008 166 167 33.75 30 Minutes wind sprints Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/15/2008 166 167 33.75 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/16/2008 166 167 33.75 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/17/2008 166 167 33.75 Stair Climbing 30 Minutes @35lbsTraveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/18/2008 165 166 33.5 Push Ups, Jumping Jacks, Leg Raises Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/19/2008 165 166 33.5 Scuba Diving, Push ups Crunches Traveling (Sudan) Work Out
1/20/2008 165 166 33.5 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/21/2008 165 166 33.25 Traveling (Sudan) Rest
1/22/2008 165 164 33.25 Traveling (Flight home from Sudan) Rest
1/23/2008 162 161 33.25 2200' Climb @ 75lb, Descend 40lb, 9 Miles Total Super Work Out
1/24/2008 161 164 33 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi 3 sets of 7 work outs Work Out
1/25/2008 163 162 33 Rest Rest
1/26/2008 162 162 33.25 30Min 7.5 Inc Run, 15 Min Hike, Crunches Work Out
1/27/2008 160 162 33 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
1/28/2008 162 163 33.25 Rest Rest
1/29/2008 163 164 33.25 Incline Hiking, 55lbs Work Out
1/30/2008 164 165 33.25 30 Min Run, Crunches, 20 Minute Incline Walk Work Out
1/31/2008 164 164 33.5 Chest/Tri/Back/Bi/Legs 5 sets of 9 work outs Work Out
2/1/2008 164 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/2/2008 164 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/3/2008 163 164 33.5 1500' Climb @ 65lb, Descend 40lb, 5 Miles Total Work Out
2/4/2008 163 164 33.5 1 Hour 15 Incline, 65lbs Work Out
2/5/2008 163 164 33.5 Rest Rest
2/6/2008 163 164 33.5 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
2/7/2008 161 162 33.25 Lower Body Lifting, 20 Minute Incline, Crunches Work Out
2/8/2008 161 162 33.25 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
2/9/2008 162 162 33.25 4 Mile Hike with 70lb on flat terrain Work Out
2/10/2008 161 162 33.25 1 Hour stair climbing Work Out
You can see that this is only 3 months of working out and that I started off pretty light. I actually began to train 6 months prior
but because of an injury I had to stop for 2 months. You can also see that I traveled during my training and it definitely took a toll
but I was still able to do some type of exercises. If I can visit Sudan and go jogging and stair climbing then you should be able to
do some type of work out in just about any country. I also tried to do at least one super work out per week. I consider a super
work out any activity that is pretty intense and lasts over 4 hours.
| Getting in Shape |
| Gear |
Bringing the right gear is critical to being able to summit any major mountain. Below is a gear list and for major items the brand
name is also included.
Personal Equipment
Expedition Back Pack - Denali Pro built by Gregory. I bought this pack a few years ago and it has proved to be very durable
and reliable. It has plenty of space and I'm confident I wouldn't find any broken straps or buckles unless I purposely tried to
break it. The top part of the pack can be separated into a day pack which is perfect for small hikes and summit day.
Sleeping Bag - I used North Face's Solar Flare which is rated to -20F or -29C. For this climb a sleeping bag rated to at least 0F
is recommended. I found that the -20F wasn't much more money than any 0F rated sleeping bag so I went with the Solar Flare.
Being warm and comfortable at night is extremely important while climbing. At high altitude its very hard to fall asleep because of
the lack of oxygen. The last thing you'll need is to get even less sleep because you were rolling around all night or too cold.
Cell Foam Pad - Cell foam pads are just light mattresses that you put on the floor of your tent. They provide a cushion between
you and the cold bumpy floor. If you put a self-inflating pad directly on the ground you can risk it popping on a sharp surface.
Self-Inflating Pad - On Aconcagua this was my first time using a self-inflated pad. This is basically just an air mattress that goes
over your cell foam pad and makes sleeping much more comfortable. It's not absolutely necessary but the better you sleep the
better you can climb the following day so I highly recommend one.
Compression Sacks - Compression sacks are just bags that have straps on them and are perfect for making extra room in your
pack. Without a compression sack my sleeping bag and down jacket alone probably would have taken up over half my pack.
Silverware - I used some very light titanium silverware from a camping store.
Bowl - My bowl was also made of titanium and I actually got it with a kit. Someone on the mountain suggested using either a
plastic bowl or silverware because metal on metal can scratch each other and make it harder to clean.
Sunscreen - I would bring the strongest sunscreen you can find, at least rated at a 50. Also you'll spend several weeks on
Aconcagua so make sure you bring enough.
Lip Balm - A small stick of lip balm is all you will need. It's good for the sun and essential to prevent wind burned lips.
Water Bottles - I brought two one liter bottles along with insulated containers for them. The insulation is essential because of the
cold weather. On Mt. Elbrus I learned this when I brought a regular plastic bottle to carry water. On summit day I pulled it out
for a drink and instead I only had a block of ice in my pack.
1 Liter Thermo - These can be pretty heavy but for some they are well worth it. Hot water keeps your warm and is also good
for tea and coffee. Sometimes my other bottles would freeze even in their insulated containers, so adding a little hot water was
enough to thaw out the ice.
Piss Bottle - This is by far the best mountaineering invention. Bring an extra bottle with you so that you can use it to pee in the
middle of the night. On Elbrus I was sick and every 20 minutes I felt like I was getting dressed and going outside at 3 in the
morning. I brought a 1 liter bottle to Aconcagua and found that it wasn't enough for the night. I ended up upgrading to a 2.5 liter.
Knife - A small pocket knife is a useful tool for a variety of situations. I actually used mine to take apart my camera after I spilled
juice into it and it would no longer turn on.
Hygiene Bag - I brought with me only a tooth brush, floss, and toothpaste. I wouldn't worry about deodorant or razor blades.
Hand Sanitizer - This is good to wash your hands before you eat. Everything around you is usually frozen so you're not likely to
get sick, but a little bottle of hand sanitizer is worth it to be on the safe side.
First Aid Kit - If you do a guided climb your guide will have a large first aid kit. In this case you can just bring small items like
some bandaids or mole skin.
Hand & Toe Warmers - I brought with me several pairs of hand and toe warmers and I didn't use any of them. On summit day I
felt warm in camp 3 in the morning which is the coldest part of the day so I left the warmers behind. Later my extremities began
to get numb from the cold even though my body felt pretty warm. Many people get frost bite above 6,000 meters on Aconcagua
and they are so light they are worth carrying. I would definitely bring these to Aconcagua if I were to climb it again, and more
importantly bring them with you on summit day.
Trash Compactor Bags - These are so light you might as well bring them. They are good for lining your back pack and
separating dirty clothes from clean clothes. Also of course its good for trash.
Head Lamp - I brought a Black Diamond LED headlamp that worked great. Petzl are also supposed to be a good brand.
Head Gear
Ski Hat - A normal wool ski hat found in an outdoor or ski shop is all you will need. This thing almost never left my head after I
arrived to base camp.
Balaclava - I found a balaclava extremely useful after base camp. It completely blocks the wind from your face and stops your
nose from running all the time, makes climbing that much more comfortable.
Sun Hat - On the lower slopes you'll definitely want a sun hat because its easy to get burned. I used a baseball cap.
Buff - I never used a buff until Aconcagua but from now on I think I'll always bring one for outdoor trips. A buff is just an elastic
gaiter that you can wear around your neck to protect you from the sun. Some people stretch it around their face and use it as a
super light balaclava as well.
Bandanna - A bandanna is a useful item just because it's flexible. Some people use it instead of a buff and wrap it around their
neck. I prefer a buff to a bandanna and on my next trip I'll probably leave the bandannas at home.
Glacier Glasses - These are nothing but sunglasses but with side shields to completely block out the sun.
Ski Goggles - On higher camps you'll probably put your glacier glasses away and only wear the ski goggles. Ski goggles are
great because they also block out the wind from your eyes.
Clothing
Light Long Underwear - For light long underwear I simply bought some spandex type gear I got from a climbing store.
Heavy Long Underwear - My heavy long underwear for my legs was some thick wool I got from REI. For my upper body I
used some random polyester and a north face fleece. I never ended up wearing the polyester top.
Soft Shell Jacket - A goretex windbreaker that I also used as my casual street jacket was my softshell.
Soft Shell Pants - Goretex mountain hardware pants were used for my legs. Make sure you have full side zippers.
Insulated Pants - Micropuff pants were suggested on the internet and I agree they work great. These also had full side zippers so
that you can slip them off if you get too hot without having to remove your boots.
Expedition Down Parka - I bought the top of the line North Face Himalaya Parka. This $500 jacket was a great pillow in all my
camps but I never wore it on summit day. I plan to use it on other mountains of course, but I'd still bring or rent one for
Aconcagua because the weather is always unpredictable.
Hand Wear
Bunting/Fleece Gloves - I brought with me some Mountain Hardware Fulcrum gloves. These worked well until I lost one of them
in base camp. Afterwards my guide gave me another pair of lighter gloves but I'm not sure what the brand was.
Hardshell Mitts - I brought some Black Diamond Expedition mitts that I love. On summit day I found that I didn't need two pairs
of gloves on, and the expedition mitts alone kept my hands really warm.
Foot Wear
Plastic Double Boots - Supposedly the warmest boots ever made, I used Koflach's Arctis Expe. I wear a size 10 street shoe
and bought the size 10.5 Koflach boots. They were slightly too big but I think a 10 would have been too tight.
Trekking Shoes - Some low top hiking shoes would be perfect for Aconcagua, but with all the money I blew on gear I didn't
want to buy any and just wore my street shoes. My street shoes worked pretty good until I hit snow and brought out the boots.
Light Sandals - Light sandals are used to cross rivers mostly, but on the normal route in February we never had to use them.
They were nice to use in base camp though on the days that were warm.
Gaiters - My pants have some built in gaiters so I didn't use any additional ones even though I had carried some to Camp 3 just
in case. Gaiters depend on your boots and pants, if you think there is a chance of getting snow inside then definitely bring them.
Wool Socks - I brought 3 pair of thick wool socks that were labeled for mountaineering.
Liner Socks - 3 pair of liner socks are essential to avoid blisters.
Climbing Gear
Ice Axe - You'll probably only use an ice axe on summit day. On my first day climbing Mt. Elbrus a group of four climbers all
died because they slipped and none of them brought ice axes to stop their fall.
Crampons - I wore Black Diamond Sabre Tooth crampons with my Koflachs. I saw some people wearing crampons in Camp 2.
Ski Poles - These aren't essential but they are a good tool that almost every enjoys using. I definitely wouldn't climb without them
since they are useful while trying to balance yourself and can avoid falling on slippery terrain.
name is also included.
Personal Equipment
Expedition Back Pack - Denali Pro built by Gregory. I bought this pack a few years ago and it has proved to be very durable
and reliable. It has plenty of space and I'm confident I wouldn't find any broken straps or buckles unless I purposely tried to
break it. The top part of the pack can be separated into a day pack which is perfect for small hikes and summit day.
Sleeping Bag - I used North Face's Solar Flare which is rated to -20F or -29C. For this climb a sleeping bag rated to at least 0F
is recommended. I found that the -20F wasn't much more money than any 0F rated sleeping bag so I went with the Solar Flare.
Being warm and comfortable at night is extremely important while climbing. At high altitude its very hard to fall asleep because of
the lack of oxygen. The last thing you'll need is to get even less sleep because you were rolling around all night or too cold.
Cell Foam Pad - Cell foam pads are just light mattresses that you put on the floor of your tent. They provide a cushion between
you and the cold bumpy floor. If you put a self-inflating pad directly on the ground you can risk it popping on a sharp surface.
Self-Inflating Pad - On Aconcagua this was my first time using a self-inflated pad. This is basically just an air mattress that goes
over your cell foam pad and makes sleeping much more comfortable. It's not absolutely necessary but the better you sleep the
better you can climb the following day so I highly recommend one.
Compression Sacks - Compression sacks are just bags that have straps on them and are perfect for making extra room in your
pack. Without a compression sack my sleeping bag and down jacket alone probably would have taken up over half my pack.
Silverware - I used some very light titanium silverware from a camping store.
Bowl - My bowl was also made of titanium and I actually got it with a kit. Someone on the mountain suggested using either a
plastic bowl or silverware because metal on metal can scratch each other and make it harder to clean.
Sunscreen - I would bring the strongest sunscreen you can find, at least rated at a 50. Also you'll spend several weeks on
Aconcagua so make sure you bring enough.
Lip Balm - A small stick of lip balm is all you will need. It's good for the sun and essential to prevent wind burned lips.
Water Bottles - I brought two one liter bottles along with insulated containers for them. The insulation is essential because of the
cold weather. On Mt. Elbrus I learned this when I brought a regular plastic bottle to carry water. On summit day I pulled it out
for a drink and instead I only had a block of ice in my pack.
1 Liter Thermo - These can be pretty heavy but for some they are well worth it. Hot water keeps your warm and is also good
for tea and coffee. Sometimes my other bottles would freeze even in their insulated containers, so adding a little hot water was
enough to thaw out the ice.
Piss Bottle - This is by far the best mountaineering invention. Bring an extra bottle with you so that you can use it to pee in the
middle of the night. On Elbrus I was sick and every 20 minutes I felt like I was getting dressed and going outside at 3 in the
morning. I brought a 1 liter bottle to Aconcagua and found that it wasn't enough for the night. I ended up upgrading to a 2.5 liter.
Knife - A small pocket knife is a useful tool for a variety of situations. I actually used mine to take apart my camera after I spilled
juice into it and it would no longer turn on.
Hygiene Bag - I brought with me only a tooth brush, floss, and toothpaste. I wouldn't worry about deodorant or razor blades.
Hand Sanitizer - This is good to wash your hands before you eat. Everything around you is usually frozen so you're not likely to
get sick, but a little bottle of hand sanitizer is worth it to be on the safe side.
First Aid Kit - If you do a guided climb your guide will have a large first aid kit. In this case you can just bring small items like
some bandaids or mole skin.
Hand & Toe Warmers - I brought with me several pairs of hand and toe warmers and I didn't use any of them. On summit day I
felt warm in camp 3 in the morning which is the coldest part of the day so I left the warmers behind. Later my extremities began
to get numb from the cold even though my body felt pretty warm. Many people get frost bite above 6,000 meters on Aconcagua
and they are so light they are worth carrying. I would definitely bring these to Aconcagua if I were to climb it again, and more
importantly bring them with you on summit day.
Trash Compactor Bags - These are so light you might as well bring them. They are good for lining your back pack and
separating dirty clothes from clean clothes. Also of course its good for trash.
Head Lamp - I brought a Black Diamond LED headlamp that worked great. Petzl are also supposed to be a good brand.
Head Gear
Ski Hat - A normal wool ski hat found in an outdoor or ski shop is all you will need. This thing almost never left my head after I
arrived to base camp.
Balaclava - I found a balaclava extremely useful after base camp. It completely blocks the wind from your face and stops your
nose from running all the time, makes climbing that much more comfortable.
Sun Hat - On the lower slopes you'll definitely want a sun hat because its easy to get burned. I used a baseball cap.
Buff - I never used a buff until Aconcagua but from now on I think I'll always bring one for outdoor trips. A buff is just an elastic
gaiter that you can wear around your neck to protect you from the sun. Some people stretch it around their face and use it as a
super light balaclava as well.
Bandanna - A bandanna is a useful item just because it's flexible. Some people use it instead of a buff and wrap it around their
neck. I prefer a buff to a bandanna and on my next trip I'll probably leave the bandannas at home.
Glacier Glasses - These are nothing but sunglasses but with side shields to completely block out the sun.
Ski Goggles - On higher camps you'll probably put your glacier glasses away and only wear the ski goggles. Ski goggles are
great because they also block out the wind from your eyes.
Clothing
Light Long Underwear - For light long underwear I simply bought some spandex type gear I got from a climbing store.
Heavy Long Underwear - My heavy long underwear for my legs was some thick wool I got from REI. For my upper body I
used some random polyester and a north face fleece. I never ended up wearing the polyester top.
Soft Shell Jacket - A goretex windbreaker that I also used as my casual street jacket was my softshell.
Soft Shell Pants - Goretex mountain hardware pants were used for my legs. Make sure you have full side zippers.
Insulated Pants - Micropuff pants were suggested on the internet and I agree they work great. These also had full side zippers so
that you can slip them off if you get too hot without having to remove your boots.
Expedition Down Parka - I bought the top of the line North Face Himalaya Parka. This $500 jacket was a great pillow in all my
camps but I never wore it on summit day. I plan to use it on other mountains of course, but I'd still bring or rent one for
Aconcagua because the weather is always unpredictable.
Hand Wear
Bunting/Fleece Gloves - I brought with me some Mountain Hardware Fulcrum gloves. These worked well until I lost one of them
in base camp. Afterwards my guide gave me another pair of lighter gloves but I'm not sure what the brand was.
Hardshell Mitts - I brought some Black Diamond Expedition mitts that I love. On summit day I found that I didn't need two pairs
of gloves on, and the expedition mitts alone kept my hands really warm.
Foot Wear
Plastic Double Boots - Supposedly the warmest boots ever made, I used Koflach's Arctis Expe. I wear a size 10 street shoe
and bought the size 10.5 Koflach boots. They were slightly too big but I think a 10 would have been too tight.
Trekking Shoes - Some low top hiking shoes would be perfect for Aconcagua, but with all the money I blew on gear I didn't
want to buy any and just wore my street shoes. My street shoes worked pretty good until I hit snow and brought out the boots.
Light Sandals - Light sandals are used to cross rivers mostly, but on the normal route in February we never had to use them.
They were nice to use in base camp though on the days that were warm.
Gaiters - My pants have some built in gaiters so I didn't use any additional ones even though I had carried some to Camp 3 just
in case. Gaiters depend on your boots and pants, if you think there is a chance of getting snow inside then definitely bring them.
Wool Socks - I brought 3 pair of thick wool socks that were labeled for mountaineering.
Liner Socks - 3 pair of liner socks are essential to avoid blisters.
Climbing Gear
Ice Axe - You'll probably only use an ice axe on summit day. On my first day climbing Mt. Elbrus a group of four climbers all
died because they slipped and none of them brought ice axes to stop their fall.
Crampons - I wore Black Diamond Sabre Tooth crampons with my Koflachs. I saw some people wearing crampons in Camp 2.
Ski Poles - These aren't essential but they are a good tool that almost every enjoys using. I definitely wouldn't climb without them
since they are useful while trying to balance yourself and can avoid falling on slippery terrain.
| The Actual Climb |
Now that you've gotten all your gear and are in shape you're ready for the actual climb. I'll try to give a brief explanation of what
you can expect on a day to day basis and a quick comparison to other mountains.
Camp Confluencia - From the park entrance you'll have an easy mostly flat hike to Camp Confluencia. For the first few days
you'll carry only a day pack so won't have to worry about extra weight. Once in Confluencia you will also do local
acclimatization hikes to 4,000 meters before moving to base camp. I found all of these very easy.
Base Camp - The hike to base camp is about 8 hours from Confluencia. The majority of it is on very flat terrain until the very
end. The last part is a called strong hill in Spanish and goes up a very steep hill for about 15 minutes. The hill was definitely more
challenging than the other part of the trek but I didn't find it very difficult. Someone in our group said he found this hill alone
harder than summit day on Kilimanjaro. Statements like this are all a result from training. I can promise you this person hadn't
trained much for the climb and as a result didn't summit. After climbing once a week with 70lbs, a steep 15 minute hill with a day
pack wasn't very difficult for me at all, while another person on the same trip felt it was extremely challenging.
Local Hikes - After you reach base camp you'll do some local hikes to acclimatize some more. Most of these were pretty easy,
but we did a climb to 5,000 meters on a peak known as Cerro Bone. I found this day to be challenging, but I believe it was a
result of acclimatizing and not physical fitness. Once on the summit I felt pretty mellow and wanted to go back down.
Camp 1 - We reached Camp 1 twice on our expedition. Once to drop off some gear and then the second time on our way to the
summit. The first time Camp 1 was dry and rocky and the terrain was kind of annoying. The second time it was covered in snow
so a little easier. Camp 1 is at 4900 meters and we carried about 30lbs the first day to it. All of the high camps are challenging,
but I felt Camp 1 of course was the easiest.
Camp 2 - We carried about 40lb to Camp 2 taking about 4 hours. Our guide promised Camp 2 was the hardest camp to reach
and that Camp 3 was easier. I didn't find Camp 2 hard at all until the very end. The first 3 hours I felt like this was a joke, even
with the 40lbs on my back. The last hour I couldn't wait to reach camp even though the terrain wasn't as steep as in the middle of
the day.
Camp 3 - Both myself and my climbing partner felt that the reaching Camp 3 was equal to or worse than Camp 2 even though
our guide had said it wasn't nearly as bad. While we hiked to Camp 3 we had terrible weather and a snow storm so this was
probably the biggest reason for us feeling that way. Most of the hike was semi steep but the last 20 minutes were very steep.
Summit Day - When you reach base camp you'll have an 8 hour hike, but most of the other days you won't do more than 5
hours. On summit day prepare for 8 hours from Camp 3 to the top with another 3 or 4 hours back down. The biggest problem
people have with summit day is the Canaleta which is a steep gravel like area causing people to slide backwards and making a
frustrating climb. For us, the Canaleta was covered in snow so I found the traverse immediately before it much harder. Deep
snow made the climbing difficult but most of it had been cleared by previous climbers. I never really felt like any area was
extremely steep including the Canaleta. Prepare to climb up to 30 degrees on summit day with a day pack.
Descending - I think I had prepared very well for this trip as far as my gear and training goes, but descending was where I failed.
After summit day I returned to Camp 3 and went to sleep like everyone else. No one eats dinner because it's so late, but in the
morning I listened to the altitude when it told me I wasn't hungry and pretty much skipped breakfast. I figured we were going to
base camp which wasn't very far and I could eat whatever I wanted to there. How stupid can I be! While going up the mountain
I was always right behind the guide and I never felt that I wouldn't be strong enough to continue. During the descent I found that I
was lagging behind everyone even though I wasn't out of breathe and felt fine in regards to the altitude. The problem really was
common sense, I must have burned 10,000 calories on summit day and never replaced them with anything. Going down I had no
energy whatsoever and it took me a hell of a lot longer than it should have. Once in base Camp I ate plenty of food and the next
day I was back to normal again. I've read about this mistake plenty of times but somehow I still let it happen to me, when you
reach the top of the mountain you are only half way finished. Many people let their guard down, and this is why most accidents
happen coming down, making a descent a on a mountain the most dangerous part.
Comparing to Mt. Kilimanjaro - In a way, Aconcagua is like Kilimanjaro in the sense that it is high altitude and for the most part
hiking, just that it is a whole 1,000 meters higher. In that regards many people who do Kilimanjaro consider Aconcagua the next
logical step in climbing, but this might not always be a wise decision. By comparison, what this comes down to is Aconcagua is at
least a level or two higher in all aspects compared to Kilimanjaro. You will climb 1,000 meters higher, carry up to 40lbs of gear,
spend three or four times longer on the mountain, experience harsher conditions and weather, and you're level of fitness will need
to be double the needs of Kilimanjaro. A climber I met who didn't reach the summit of Aconcagua but did climb Kilimanjaro said
that he felt Aconcagua was twice as hard, and I would agree with that.
Back in 2000, I was also one of those who had recently climbed Kilimanjaro and immediately had my eyes set on Aconcagua. I
had even emailed a climbing group and asked if I was ready and they had encouraged me to join. My training for Kilimanjaro
was nothing more than running a few times a week which was enough to get me to the summit. There is no doubt in my mind if I
had gone to Aconcagua at that time I would have been shocked by the demands of the mountain and suffered and failed
miserably. Anyone who dedicates them self to training likely won't find Aconcagua extremely difficult, but the bottom line is this is
a long and challenging climb and it should never be underestimated!
you can expect on a day to day basis and a quick comparison to other mountains.
Camp Confluencia - From the park entrance you'll have an easy mostly flat hike to Camp Confluencia. For the first few days
you'll carry only a day pack so won't have to worry about extra weight. Once in Confluencia you will also do local
acclimatization hikes to 4,000 meters before moving to base camp. I found all of these very easy.
Base Camp - The hike to base camp is about 8 hours from Confluencia. The majority of it is on very flat terrain until the very
end. The last part is a called strong hill in Spanish and goes up a very steep hill for about 15 minutes. The hill was definitely more
challenging than the other part of the trek but I didn't find it very difficult. Someone in our group said he found this hill alone
harder than summit day on Kilimanjaro. Statements like this are all a result from training. I can promise you this person hadn't
trained much for the climb and as a result didn't summit. After climbing once a week with 70lbs, a steep 15 minute hill with a day
pack wasn't very difficult for me at all, while another person on the same trip felt it was extremely challenging.
Local Hikes - After you reach base camp you'll do some local hikes to acclimatize some more. Most of these were pretty easy,
but we did a climb to 5,000 meters on a peak known as Cerro Bone. I found this day to be challenging, but I believe it was a
result of acclimatizing and not physical fitness. Once on the summit I felt pretty mellow and wanted to go back down.
Camp 1 - We reached Camp 1 twice on our expedition. Once to drop off some gear and then the second time on our way to the
summit. The first time Camp 1 was dry and rocky and the terrain was kind of annoying. The second time it was covered in snow
so a little easier. Camp 1 is at 4900 meters and we carried about 30lbs the first day to it. All of the high camps are challenging,
but I felt Camp 1 of course was the easiest.
Camp 2 - We carried about 40lb to Camp 2 taking about 4 hours. Our guide promised Camp 2 was the hardest camp to reach
and that Camp 3 was easier. I didn't find Camp 2 hard at all until the very end. The first 3 hours I felt like this was a joke, even
with the 40lbs on my back. The last hour I couldn't wait to reach camp even though the terrain wasn't as steep as in the middle of
the day.
Camp 3 - Both myself and my climbing partner felt that the reaching Camp 3 was equal to or worse than Camp 2 even though
our guide had said it wasn't nearly as bad. While we hiked to Camp 3 we had terrible weather and a snow storm so this was
probably the biggest reason for us feeling that way. Most of the hike was semi steep but the last 20 minutes were very steep.
Summit Day - When you reach base camp you'll have an 8 hour hike, but most of the other days you won't do more than 5
hours. On summit day prepare for 8 hours from Camp 3 to the top with another 3 or 4 hours back down. The biggest problem
people have with summit day is the Canaleta which is a steep gravel like area causing people to slide backwards and making a
frustrating climb. For us, the Canaleta was covered in snow so I found the traverse immediately before it much harder. Deep
snow made the climbing difficult but most of it had been cleared by previous climbers. I never really felt like any area was
extremely steep including the Canaleta. Prepare to climb up to 30 degrees on summit day with a day pack.
Descending - I think I had prepared very well for this trip as far as my gear and training goes, but descending was where I failed.
After summit day I returned to Camp 3 and went to sleep like everyone else. No one eats dinner because it's so late, but in the
morning I listened to the altitude when it told me I wasn't hungry and pretty much skipped breakfast. I figured we were going to
base camp which wasn't very far and I could eat whatever I wanted to there. How stupid can I be! While going up the mountain
I was always right behind the guide and I never felt that I wouldn't be strong enough to continue. During the descent I found that I
was lagging behind everyone even though I wasn't out of breathe and felt fine in regards to the altitude. The problem really was
common sense, I must have burned 10,000 calories on summit day and never replaced them with anything. Going down I had no
energy whatsoever and it took me a hell of a lot longer than it should have. Once in base Camp I ate plenty of food and the next
day I was back to normal again. I've read about this mistake plenty of times but somehow I still let it happen to me, when you
reach the top of the mountain you are only half way finished. Many people let their guard down, and this is why most accidents
happen coming down, making a descent a on a mountain the most dangerous part.
Comparing to Mt. Kilimanjaro - In a way, Aconcagua is like Kilimanjaro in the sense that it is high altitude and for the most part
hiking, just that it is a whole 1,000 meters higher. In that regards many people who do Kilimanjaro consider Aconcagua the next
logical step in climbing, but this might not always be a wise decision. By comparison, what this comes down to is Aconcagua is at
least a level or two higher in all aspects compared to Kilimanjaro. You will climb 1,000 meters higher, carry up to 40lbs of gear,
spend three or four times longer on the mountain, experience harsher conditions and weather, and you're level of fitness will need
to be double the needs of Kilimanjaro. A climber I met who didn't reach the summit of Aconcagua but did climb Kilimanjaro said
that he felt Aconcagua was twice as hard, and I would agree with that.
Back in 2000, I was also one of those who had recently climbed Kilimanjaro and immediately had my eyes set on Aconcagua. I
had even emailed a climbing group and asked if I was ready and they had encouraged me to join. My training for Kilimanjaro
was nothing more than running a few times a week which was enough to get me to the summit. There is no doubt in my mind if I
had gone to Aconcagua at that time I would have been shocked by the demands of the mountain and suffered and failed
miserably. Anyone who dedicates them self to training likely won't find Aconcagua extremely difficult, but the bottom line is this is
a long and challenging climb and it should never be underestimated!
| Post a question, reply, or comment about how to climb Mt. Aconcagua |
George: Hi Robert, I have two pages about Aconcagua, one being a travelogue and photo page and the other
you might not have seen, my how to climb Aconcagua page which gives more details on what was done to get
ready, the gear I used and a brief explanation of each camp. When I climbed Aconcagua we spent 6 days at plaza
de mulas before sleeping at Camp 1. From there on the plan was to spend only one night in each camp but
because of bad weather we ended up spending two nights in Camp 2 and three nights in Camp 3, if you include
the night after summiting. A 0F sleeping bag is recommended but I used a -20F as well and slept warm at all
camps. Aconcagua is generally rocky and dry so the trails are actually easy to follow. If you climb in February like
I did then you're likely to have snow. This will completely cover the trails and can potentially put you in a
dangerous situation because you won't be able to recognize anything, including your own tent in the distance if
there is enough snow on it. If it snows at night or the day before then you can probably get away with following
other climbers and their footprints. But, Aconcagua is known for being a very windy mountain so even with clear
skies strong winds can blow enough snow around to cover fresh footprints. In other words the trails can be easy
to follow if there is no snow, but you will need to bring an elevation map, compass, altimeter etc and plan on them
not being visible. There are many glacier run offs on the normal route so it should be easy to find water. There is a
large ice formation with a big creek by base camp and even some small stores. I'm not sure where run offs are
located by the other camps because we got our water by melting snow that came down after a big storm. Good
luck on your climb!
you might not have seen, my how to climb Aconcagua page which gives more details on what was done to get
ready, the gear I used and a brief explanation of each camp. When I climbed Aconcagua we spent 6 days at plaza
de mulas before sleeping at Camp 1. From there on the plan was to spend only one night in each camp but
because of bad weather we ended up spending two nights in Camp 2 and three nights in Camp 3, if you include
the night after summiting. A 0F sleeping bag is recommended but I used a -20F as well and slept warm at all
camps. Aconcagua is generally rocky and dry so the trails are actually easy to follow. If you climb in February like
I did then you're likely to have snow. This will completely cover the trails and can potentially put you in a
dangerous situation because you won't be able to recognize anything, including your own tent in the distance if
there is enough snow on it. If it snows at night or the day before then you can probably get away with following
other climbers and their footprints. But, Aconcagua is known for being a very windy mountain so even with clear
skies strong winds can blow enough snow around to cover fresh footprints. In other words the trails can be easy
to follow if there is no snow, but you will need to bring an elevation map, compass, altimeter etc and plan on them
not being visible. There are many glacier run offs on the normal route so it should be easy to find water. There is a
large ice formation with a big creek by base camp and even some small stores. I'm not sure where run offs are
located by the other camps because we got our water by melting snow that came down after a big storm. Good
luck on your climb!
Zelly from Mexico: I love this enformation!
Rawi from Germany: Great information. Honest, helpful and entertaining! Thanks for this page.
Robert from USA: thanks much for the pics and the info. I will attempt to climb the mountain in Feb.09. How many
days should I plan above plaza de mulas? In researching, I noticed a lack of snow on the normal route. what about
water?. will a -20F bag be adequate? is the route well marked if I solo?
days should I plan above plaza de mulas? In researching, I noticed a lack of snow on the normal route. what about
water?. will a -20F bag be adequate? is the route well marked if I solo?
Lou from Australia: Excellent Information and thank you for taking the time to enlighten people like me who are about
to attempt the climb. It is evident you took photos - What type of camera did you use and more importantly how many
batteries did you take , and how did you keep everything warm so that you did not lose the battery power.
to attempt the climb. It is evident you took photos - What type of camera did you use and more importantly how many
batteries did you take , and how did you keep everything warm so that you did not lose the battery power.
Lou from Australia: George, do you actually sweat while walking and did you lose any weight? Does anything
dry like thermals if they get sweaty? Did youtake any elctrolyte tablets or powders or powerade (drink) to replace
loss of water or energy. Did you consume any chocolate bars when actually walking? I sweat perfusely and have
suffered servere cramps after and during strenuous exercise from dehydration. What is the chance of this
happening? Thank you again.
dry like thermals if they get sweaty? Did youtake any elctrolyte tablets or powders or powerade (drink) to replace
loss of water or energy. Did you consume any chocolate bars when actually walking? I sweat perfusely and have
suffered servere cramps after and during strenuous exercise from dehydration. What is the chance of this
happening? Thank you again.
George: These are some good questions, things I should have wrote about earlier but I forgot about them.
Minerals & Energy Bars: Since the water you are drinking is from melted snow, it has probably been sitting on the
mountain for a very long time. This means there are almost no minerals in the water so it is extremely important to
add them yourself. Bringing powder or tablets that you can mix in is essential, if you are doing a guided climb then
this should already be covered. I did bring energy bars for the climb but I forgot them in Chile and I definitely
wished I had them on the mountain. I lost about five or more pounds on Aconcagua so this is hard to avoid.
Sweating: The issue you have with sweating/dehydration is very critical. Sweating while mountain climbing is one of
the most dangerous situations you can find yourself in. Wet clothes put you in a much higher risk for getting
hypothermia if there is a large drop in temperatures which is quite normal on large mountains that create their own
weather. Before you start your day you should be slightly cold so that when you warm up while hiking you are
neither shivering nor sweating. The key to this is to add several layers of clothing that can easily be removed so
you can adjust for the changing temperatures. Bring some pants that have full length zippers on the sides. This way
you can unzip them and take them off easily without having to sit down and remove your boots.
Dehydration: There is a lot that isn't known about acclimatizing yet but so far it seems clear that the fitter you are,
the better pace you have, the more you are hydrated, and the better mindset you have, the less likely you are to
have altitude problems. On Aconcagua it is recommended to drink at least 5 liters of water everyday. Climbers
who are dehydrated are much more likely to have altitude problems and not summit. It is very difficult to force
yourself to drink five liters a day for a couple of weeks straight but do not forget how important it is!
Minerals & Energy Bars: Since the water you are drinking is from melted snow, it has probably been sitting on the
mountain for a very long time. This means there are almost no minerals in the water so it is extremely important to
add them yourself. Bringing powder or tablets that you can mix in is essential, if you are doing a guided climb then
this should already be covered. I did bring energy bars for the climb but I forgot them in Chile and I definitely
wished I had them on the mountain. I lost about five or more pounds on Aconcagua so this is hard to avoid.
Sweating: The issue you have with sweating/dehydration is very critical. Sweating while mountain climbing is one of
the most dangerous situations you can find yourself in. Wet clothes put you in a much higher risk for getting
hypothermia if there is a large drop in temperatures which is quite normal on large mountains that create their own
weather. Before you start your day you should be slightly cold so that when you warm up while hiking you are
neither shivering nor sweating. The key to this is to add several layers of clothing that can easily be removed so
you can adjust for the changing temperatures. Bring some pants that have full length zippers on the sides. This way
you can unzip them and take them off easily without having to sit down and remove your boots.
Dehydration: There is a lot that isn't known about acclimatizing yet but so far it seems clear that the fitter you are,
the better pace you have, the more you are hydrated, and the better mindset you have, the less likely you are to
have altitude problems. On Aconcagua it is recommended to drink at least 5 liters of water everyday. Climbers
who are dehydrated are much more likely to have altitude problems and not summit. It is very difficult to force
yourself to drink five liters a day for a couple of weeks straight but do not forget how important it is!
George: Lou, at the time I used a Panasonic DMC-FZ30 camera. This camera worked great during the whole
climb. Many websites warn about digital cameras not working in high altitude but I never had any problems with
mine. Cold weather will definitely shorten the life of your batteries so I brought three with me. I kept two of them
in my back pocket so they would stay warm. My intention was to use two batteries during the climb and save the
third one until summit day. A day or two before summit day I used my second battery and that was more than half
way full when I got off the mountain so I never used the third.
climb. Many websites warn about digital cameras not working in high altitude but I never had any problems with
mine. Cold weather will definitely shorten the life of your batteries so I brought three with me. I kept two of them
in my back pocket so they would stay warm. My intention was to use two batteries during the climb and save the
third one until summit day. A day or two before summit day I used my second battery and that was more than half
way full when I got off the mountain so I never used the third.
Sam from USA: Excellent Journal of your experience. Thanks for the effort and diligence in preparing such a valuable
account. I will certainly use this information and it has been very helpful.
account. I will certainly use this information and it has been very helpful.
Siva from India: Really I am very happy for this information.
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George: Hey John, I just dumped my water bottle in the stream and drank it straight and didn't get sick,
otherwise you should use purifying tablets. I didn't filter it either so the bottom of the bottle gets pretty sandy
otherwise you should use purifying tablets. I didn't filter it either so the bottom of the bottle gets pretty sandy
John from Canada: Great tips and full of information. I'm wondering what you did for water filtration/purification?
Tyler from USA: Thanks for the info. It is good stuff. A lot better than anything else I found.
George: I tried to avoid drinking water a few hours before sleeping. If you have cotton mouth or are thirsty
before sleeping then you definitely need to hydrate, otherwise if you've been sipping water throughout the day it
won't cause a problem. Even if you don't drink a few hours before you're still likely to have to wake up and pee,
so keeping a pee bottle in the tent will make it a 1 minute ordeal instead of having to get dressed and go outside.
before sleeping then you definitely need to hydrate, otherwise if you've been sipping water throughout the day it
won't cause a problem. Even if you don't drink a few hours before you're still likely to have to wake up and pee,
so keeping a pee bottle in the tent will make it a 1 minute ordeal instead of having to get dressed and go outside.
Gary from USA: Thanks for the very helpful information. On Kilimanjaro I had to pee every few minutes all night every
night (so also others who were climbing with me), and we only drank 3 liters per day. How did you get any sleep above
5000 meters with drinking so much water?
night (so also others who were climbing with me), and we only drank 3 liters per day. How did you get any sleep above
5000 meters with drinking so much water?
Patrick from USA: Superb pictures and info!!! just climbed Kili and thought Id look into a few of the other peaks.
Congrats!!!
Congrats!!!
Jujo from Finland: I love reading these climbing reports! Thanks!
Jakub from Ireland: Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Hassan from Azerbaijan: Climbing Mt. Aconcagua is definitely a dream for me. Someday!
Stacy from USA: Fantastic info, George! I just summited Kilimanjaro 22 Feb. 2010 and now that I've been back for a
few months, I have this bug again to climb. Aconcagua makes the most sense, but I'm also considering Mt. Elbrus
although from what I'm reading about Elbrus, it doesn't seem like you do that much climbing but a lot of riding on trains
or other types of transportation to get to the top. I want to work hard for my success! You've provided great info on
the prep work you feel is necessary for Aconcagua so I appreciate that. I'm already in decent shape, but what I'm not
used to is carrying the 40+ lb. pack. Guess I need to start loading up and hitting the trails! Thanks again! Stacy
few months, I have this bug again to climb. Aconcagua makes the most sense, but I'm also considering Mt. Elbrus
although from what I'm reading about Elbrus, it doesn't seem like you do that much climbing but a lot of riding on trains
or other types of transportation to get to the top. I want to work hard for my success! You've provided great info on
the prep work you feel is necessary for Aconcagua so I appreciate that. I'm already in decent shape, but what I'm not
used to is carrying the 40+ lb. pack. Guess I need to start loading up and hitting the trails! Thanks again! Stacy